Importance of nickel acetate in anodize sealing
A discussion started in 2003 but continuing through 2018
Q. I am not well versed in the anodization process (beyond the basics). I am laser marking (CO2 laser, 10.6 um) a blue anodized aluminum part and having some difficulties. Typically, the CO2 laser will remove the pigment/dye from the anodized layer and show through the bare aluminum, creating a very sharp contrast without removing the anodization. This new blue part is not acting this way. My customer says that it is standard type II sulfuric acid with a nickel acetate coating. I think the problem is the nickel coating. The 10.6 um wavelength is usually pretty well reflected by nickel. My question is - is the nickel acetate coating required? What does it do? Is it used on standard low-grade aluminum anodization of other colors? From my reading, it appears that it is primarily a seal for "blue" dye. Does it perform some other useful function?Iyvind Hansen
- Mukilteo, Washington
A. Nickel Acetate Seal enhances the corrosion protection of all Type II anodizing, dyed and/or clear.
If you do not have a particularly cruel corrosion environment then you may request your anodizing sealed in 210 °F D.I. or distilled water.
"Sealing" is merely hydrating the Aluminum Oxide Molecule which is very small, into a Hydrated Aluminum Oxide Molecule which is larger and hence plugs the tiny hollow columns in the coating.
Robert H Probert
Robert H Probert Technical Services
Garner, North Carolina
A. The Laser engraving does work well on the Anodize, the problem is very much the nickel. Metals, for whatever reason, require a frequency of 1064 nano's to excite the metal to vaporize it for the engraving.
We utilized a 50 watt CO2 laser and it worked great for many things. We ran into problems when we tried Polished metals. We also learned that pulsing frequency matters also.
Epilog laser was VERY helpful in our quest for information.
Anyway ... maybe this will help in a selection of lasers for future reference.
The Power is not always the important thing in laser engraving. Matching the frequency of the beam to the application at times is the MOST important thing.
At 1064 nano's frequency 20 watts can be PLENTY to engrave metals.
Restatement: I retread the post and realized you are using 10.6. Can you change the pulse frequency of the beam? We varied the pulse frequency and found a frequency that worked for our application. I will have to try the Nickel sealer to learn more about this situation.
- Marina Del Rey, California
September 10, 2009 -- this entry appended to this thread by editor in lieu of spawning a duplicative thread
Q. Does sealing for 1 hour in nickel acetate have an influence on resistance of sulfuric anodize?zip beg
study - India
September 10, 2009
A. Hi, Zip. As you see, we appended your question to a thread that should answer it. If the answers are not clear to you, please follow up. In general, yes, sealing is a vital part of the corrosion resistance of sulfuric anodize.
Ted Mooney, P.E.
Pine Beach, New Jersey
April 8, 2013
Q. In regards to clear anodize, will boiling water produce a more clear finish than than a mid temp nickel acetate? I rarely run clear because of the yellowish finished appearance. I mainly do 6061 but need to do some 7075 clear.
- Warren, Ohio, USA
A. Hi. Boiling DI water will not add any yellow coloration; it is what is usually used (to my knowledge) on mirrors and reflectors. But I would expect 7075 to anodize to a more yellow tone than 6061 because of its higher copper content.
Ted Mooney, P.E.
Pine Beach, New Jersey
February 1, 2018
Q. Does anyone know what effect the nickel sealer has on the mechanical properties of the coating? I have seen that when the nickel sealing process is replaced with some other hot DI water sealing process, the surface cracks and gouges frequently. This is detrimental to the ability to form a seal. This was observed with SEM, and was compared to another supplier that was using the nickel sealer. The surface finish was much more suitable for my application when a nickel sealer was used versus a hot DI water.Jacob Rabe
- La Crosse, Wisconsin, USA
February 7, 2018
I think you would be better served by evaluating articles whose only difference is the seal. Use the same part (#), same anodizer, same rack, then after anodize prior to the seal, remove one and seal accordingly.
If you're evaluating the surface via SEM, the etching step of the anodize process would seem to be a more likely cause for surface finish variation between 2 suppliers of the same part/finish.
- Green Mountain Falls, Colorado
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