A website for Serious Education, promoting Aloha,
& the most FUN smiley you can have in metal amadeya42

on this site
current topics
topic 12362, p2

Coating tables and bar tops with thick clear pourable plastic

1 2

A discussion started in 2002 but continuing through 2018

August 31, 2010

Q. I have searched everywhere for a solution to my outdoor-specific problem. Can I use the methods and products mentioned above to encapsulate vinyl letters on a small porous rubber substrate to create outdoor-durable signs? Any help or links would help as I've really hit a wall in the process.


David Davis
- Raleigh, North Carolina USA

January 12, 2011

Q. Hi
I have been trying enviroTex light, a 2 part epoxy on some marquetry (thin wood veneers cut into designs) with not very good results. I am trying to do this as a business so production time is very important. Has anybody ever tried to thin this product down?
It seems there is no easy way to work with this besides trial and error.
Yesterday I used a one part water based finish and it destroyed the entire project...oh well..
thank you all for you interesting inputs.

Here is a question I almost didn't ask because it seems stupid...but then I remembered something about there are no stupid questions except the ones you never ask...
So my work is sitting flat on a table and every time I lift the torch up and point the flame down it "flames out" than goes out. A friend said that is because the propane in the tank is partially liquid and it will do that every time. So how do you point the propane torch down without it flaring and going out?


Bill Carli
- St. Thomas, Virgin Islands USA

January 29, 2011

A. Hi all,
I figured the torch out (use mapp gas)...but I cannot deal with Envirotex any more. There are always imperfections, something and I cannot run a business like this anymore. I wonder if there are some other coatings out there that might do somewhat the same thing that Envirotex does. I don't need heat resistance, nor such a thick coating. I am covering wood veneers and they are about 1/32 of an inch high.
any thoughts

Bill Carli
- St. Thomas, Virgin Islands USA

September 3, 2011

Q. This question is for Bill Carli (St. Thomas) from Jan. 2011-- Did you ever find a solution/product better than Envirotex lite? Sounds like my art pieces are very similar to what you are doing. Thanks for any input.

Meredith Keith
- Birmingham, Alabama, USA

January 18, 2011

Q. Hi there
I have used the 2 part epoxy resin on canvas paintings, it works wonderfully. I now have a sculpture that I want to coat. It is a plastic upright mannequin covered in coins and paua shells. what product would be thick enough to pour this on? As you can imagine it is an upright non-flat surface.

I would love some help with this

Kind regards from Auckland New Zealand

Lisa Watkins
artist, buyer - Auckland, New Zealand

February 10, 2011

A. Have used Envirotex Light for years for covering paintings on panels huge and small.
Wear a respirator with organic filters, not a mask. The stuff is carcinogenic even though it doesn't smell too bad at all.
Do it in a totally dust free area with plenty of heavy plastic on floor as you will make a mess the first few times and, if you do, it's there to stay unless it's on a wood or non porous floor.
Warm temps like 70 to 80° speed up drying of epoxies like this.
Mix equal parts, stir very well until it gets clear and makes bunch of bubbles.
Pour onto surface center and with latex gloves spread to edges. if it goes over it will continue to drip for hours (thus the plastic on the floor)
You have about a half hour or more depending on room temp to spread it. It is very easy and just fills out nice, nothing to it.
I then come back in 1/2 hour and crank up the butane torch and lightly go over the surface as a very shallow angle to pop any bubbles. Do this a few times, then let it cure, which takes about 8 to 12 hours to surface dry and 12 to 24 before it's hard.
If you do a thick pour it will crack as it heats up with the epoxy reaction; and also will show a yellow cast with coats over 1/8 inch thick.
Clean up is with rubbing alcohol. Don't use a hair dryer instead of torch to pop surface bubbles - you will just get tons of lint in it!
Never gets super hard; can get soft in heat. I would not use this product at all for bar tops. that is a different product altogether that is more durable to scuffing and won't crack when the internal temps get to 150° F if pouring out a half inch of e-tex.

rudy montoya
- portland, Oregon usa

September 5, 2011

thumbs up signI just completed a penny bar using US Composites Kleer Coat. All the advice on the page was correct. I mixed a total of 1 gal at a time and stirred for just over 10 min. The working time was longer than expected. I made a raised edge around the bar using molding and used liquid nails and finish nails to mount it. Any corner I thought was sealed well enough, wasn't. Almost every corner dripped, but not badly. (I'm not a carpenter, so my angles weren't perfectly cut.) This IS NOT AS HARD as you think. I used cabinet grade plywood for top, stained it and then put 3 coats of regular poly on it and used molding to as described above to trim it out. I used fruitwood stain, would go darker if I did it again. The tip on popping bubbles with torch is awesome. It is especially useful on second coat where most bubbles are tiny (I thought they were dust particles) from the mixing process and the torch pops them very easily. First coat bubbles were bigger and used nail to pop. Top is CRYSTAL CLEAR ! Not that difficult. 2 man project though. Would definitely do it again. LOVE IT!

John Norwillo
- Duryea, Pennsylvania, USA

October 26, 2011

A. Most Artists are using EX-74 epoxy coating to coat paintings. It has a UV inhibitor, which retards the ambering of the finish. EX-74 is also used to coat bars, and tables, and for making plaques with pictures, etc.
Other products which are similar but do not have the UV inhibitor are EX-88, Envirotex Lite, Crystal Sheen, GlazeCoat, and KleerKote. All of these products are similar, and work the same. They are easy to install, but you have to read the instructions.

I have been coating bars and tables for over 20 years, and I have also coated several paintings. Most people that have problems with the coatings do not mix them properly, and that is a critical point. If you want it to look swell, you gotta mix it like H......

CREATIVE WHOLESALE - Stockbridge, Georgia, USA

November 29, 2011

Q. How thick is the EX-74 when it is poured onto your surface? Is it thin like water or thicker? I have a 48" section cut from an oak tree and was thinking about using the EX-74 to cover it, but would also like to cover the bark. On the surface I would like to get it to a 1/4". Anybody have any tips on coating the bark or the whole project?

Tyler Smith
- Jefferson City, Missouri

December 5, 2011

Q. I am thinking about making a copper penny bar top outside by my screened pool area. It is 24 sq ft and will get a lot of sun exposure. Is the EX-74 the best coating to protect it since it has the UV inhibitor? Is it too hard for a beginner to use? Would some type of surfboard gloss resin be better? I want it to be a thin covering, and I don't want to worry about it yellowing... Any help or recommendations are appreciated!

Pamela Noto
- Lithia, Florida, USA

February 11, 2012

A. I have used clear resin to cover decals and also mixed paint into the clear resin to add additional color. As far as the bubbles... find a spray bottle that when sprayed gives you a real fine mist. If you spray alcohol across the top of the resin, it will cause the bubbles to come to the top and pop all by themselves.
If you mist the surface of the 3 to 6 times for the first hour that should do it, you can use more if needed. But, do not spray so much causing it to pool. I have used US Composites Kleer Coat for the last 3 to 4 years.

Like everyone else has said... make sure you mix it correctly, makes sure the resin is mixed well, mix it slowly so you don't cause bubbles, take your time. I
normally pour the thinner hardener into the thicker portion
of the resin. If you have a large area get some help, one person to mix and one person to pour. Hope this helps.

Jim Greenslade
- Clyde, Ohio

March 4, 2012

Q. All of the projects described just talk about the top surface. What have folks done at the edges? You either finish up with that sharp epoxy that has to be sanded or if the dam leaks the drips have to be cleaned up. Can you do the high gloss on the top and regular varnish on the edges? My daughter wants to do a bathroom vanity and I don't see any way of doing the front edge and the back splash in the clear coat. One surface only and the others will have to be varnished.

David Wills
- Kingston, Ontario, Canada

February 18, 2016

A. Leggari products sells the epoxy you are looking for it was specifically formulated for resurfacing countertops.

Tylor Svangren
Leggari - Kennewick Washington USA

April 11, 2012

Q. I am gluing pennies on my kitchen floor. Need a a hard CLEAR coat to put on top to finish the floor. Will polyurethane made for wood floor stick to the pennies? If not, any suggestions?

Cindy Whitehawk
- Honaunau, Hawaii, USA

April 13, 2012

A. Hi, Cindy. I'd use the polyurethane made for floors as this bartop stuff is rather soft and probably not good for foot traffic (deep scuffing). A think the poly will stick to the pennies, but do a sample: put four pennies on a scrap of wood and try it before committing it to your kitchen floor. Cleaning the pennies with acetone will probably help, but remember that it is flammable. Good luck.


Ted Mooney, amadeya42.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E.
Pine Beach, New Jersey

April 28, 2012

Q. I want to do a table top encapsulated with larger items (i.e. board game pieces, dice, etc.) what product would be best for something that thick? Is it possible?

Todd Wahlquist
- South Jordan, Utah

May 2, 2012

Q. Any thoughts about using pourable epoxies for edges? I am using it to coat plywood bamboo and love the cut edge the bamboo which also should be sealed, but I don't want a drippy edge or an epoxy edge the abruptly "ends". Any thoughts on how to make it a consistent finish? Should I stand it on its side to coat the edge? I have also thought about routing a a rounded corner to let the epoxy coat, but I don't want it to flow off either. Anyone have any experience with this?

Ben Lowry
- Denver, Colorado, USA

May 3, 2012

Q. I have a "Tiki" bar at my pool.It has a mahogany bar top, I would like to encase sea glass and shells in the bar top with an epoxy finish. Can I stain and urethane the mahogany wood before I use the epoxy?

Frank Silva
- Truro, Massachusetts, USA

May 21, 2012

Q. I just poured a clear coat on my concrete table top using this product. There was a 20% chance of rain and guess what ... it rained about 1:30hrs after I poured the clear coat on. now that the product is hard. I have bubbles and pock marks in the clear coat. How do I fix this problem. It's suppose to be in the mid 90's this week and I'm hoping that will soften up the product and work the bubbles out.

Any ideas?

Dane Simpson
- Peoria Illinois

June 18, 2012

Q. Does either Envirotex product hold up to outdoor conditions, aka and outdoor bar top?

PJ Maloney
- Albany, New York, USA

July 18, 2012

Q. I am building a tiki bar for my yard and wanted to achieve the same type finish that I have seen in many bars and restaurants. My question is will one of these pourable products work for my needs???

Mike Messina
- Toms River New Jersey

July 18, 2012

A. Hi neighbor. Rather than the thick pourable stuff, I used several coats of polyurethane spar varnish on cabinet grade plywood for my outdoor bar countertops as we've always had great success with it outdoors =>

Of course, it's very thin by pourable standards. If you want the thick pourable stuff, I'd probably follow Tyler's advice about using EX-74 because I think yellowing would be a serious problem if the coating doesn't have UV inhibitors. You can be talking serious money for those thick coatings if it's a large bar. A gallon is 231 cu inches, so divide that by the thickness you want and by 144, to determine the coverage in square feet -- and you'll see that you'll probably need several gallons.

Good luck.


Ted Mooney, amadeya42.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E.
Pine Beach, New Jersey

July 27, 2012

Q. Well guys, this was my first attempt at using epoxy and resin
I followed the instructions, but it's been about 2 weeks and it is still sticky. Is it possible to peel the whole mess off and try again in the same table. After reading all your comments, I know I didn't stir long enough (arms get tired)!
Or, is there any way to get my mix to harden?

Barbara Kendall
- Orcutt, California US

August 2, 2012

Q. Would the two part epoxy resin work on the inside of a chicken coop? It is the season for red mite and they live in the dark creases and crevices of the coop and come out at night and feed on the chickens blood. They are a perpetual problem - one only solved by housing chickens in the plastic coops, however they are an extortionate price to purchase. I am looking for a plastic type coating I can apply to the insides of the coops to prevent having to use the blow torch and insecticides on a weekly basis to treat these critters. Any advice welcome. Many thanks.

Annette Aldridge-Allen
- Essex, United Kingdom

October 22, 2012

Q. I'm attempting to use 1/4" pourable poly to finish a custom built bar top. Apparently, my friend the carpenter, built the top for use to finish, but had never used, nor researched the poly. The bar top has a swing door that closes down on the top. It's installed as part of the bar top with hinges that stick out above where the poly would go, but he didn't put moldings on some parts of the bar to hold the poly in. I understand, now that I read this article, that I can build a frame and cover with plastic wrap or wax paper, but how the heck am I supposed to work this around the hinges?

12362-2 12362-3

Heather T. [last name deleted for privacy by Editor]
- Peekskill New York USA

October 22, 2012

A. Hi Heather. It's a beautiful cabinet-grade bar. Maybe just use spar varnish instead of 1/4" thick pourable coating?

Otherwise, you can probably take a length of 3/4" diameter flexible clear plastic tubing, slit it in half lengthwise, and cover the hinge line with a dome of half tubing. Your pourable coating should run up to it and hide it pretty inconspicuously.



Ted Mooney, amadeya42.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E.
Pine Beach, New Jersey

November 21, 2012

Q. I use EX-74 to coat stained & sealed wooden boat transom signs that I make. While easy enough to get a nice clear finish, my problem is that the fingerprints left during the drip removal process (after 5 days of untouched curing) won't go away. I follow the mixing instruction to the tee, using 2 containers and placing hardener in first one (recommendation from ETI). Tried to use beeswax furniture polish to remove fingerprints...no luck...even left a couple new scratches in surface and dulled a small portion of sign. This is not the first time this has happened ... but a problem I don't remember having with the non-UV protected Envirotex Lite.


Mike Czuprenski
- Warren, Michigan, USA

February 12, 2013

Q. I wish to coat old books with a plastic (waterproof) coating that will protect them enough to be placed outside. These old books are made into bird houses. And I would like to, in effect, turn these books into a solid "slab" like a board. Ideally I am thinking that the liquid should be able to be "painted" on, all over the book, edges, etc. Any ideas? I would really appreciate any input. Thank you.

Lee Desmarais
- Ashcroft B.C. Canada

February 24, 2013

A. Fiberglass resin should do the trick for getting the waterproofing you want. I would suggest a slow set resin thinned down with a styrene based thinner rather than acetone. You can heat cure the resin if you like (around 175-200 °C), but considering that it is books I think the standard catalyst should be used.

Marc Banks
- Boone

February 25, 2013

A. Thank you for the response, I will be sure to try it..
best regards Lee

Lee Desmarais
- Ashcroft. B.C. Canada

August 4, 2013

Q. My project is an outdoor bar. Can anyone tell me of an epoxy product that is UV protected and can handle the extreme range of temperatures we get in north Texas? From what I have read here the EX-74 will not stand up to freeze. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Scott Jones
- Ft Worth, Texas, USA

August 25, 2013

Q. We just did a pour on epoxy on our bar top. Unfortunately we didn't do the seal step and there is a spot of bubbles that came after words and it is drying now. Is there a way to get this out and there is also some spots that didn't fill in like the rest, is it possible to put on a second thin coat to fill in?

Carole Strong
- Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA

September 12, 2013

Q. What great advice, tips & warnings! I'm now encouraged to do my own project (3 pc coffee table set).
Quick question: has anyone tried the "Rustin's Plastic Coating"?
If so, How did you like it?

Thank you for all your help (so much of it above, fabulous!)


Chantale Piche
- Calgary, Alberta, Canada

September 16, 2013

Q. I have covered a dining room table w sand from different beaches and lots of flat seashells, sea fans, star fish, sharks teeth, seahorses ... etc. it turned out great. I didn't bother with torching the bubbles as to me the bubbles make it look like bubbles under the sea! It's COOL!

However I had to use too many small, expensive packages of resin mix.

I know it's not cheap but I need to buy EX-74 in gallons. Several friends are now getting in line for me to do tables for them!

Anyone know where to buy gallons in Florida or online? Thanks a bunch!

Julie Ditmarsen
- Sarasota, Florida, US

October 1, 2013

Q. THIS IS A CRAZY ENDEAVOR...creating a 'living room' area outside. It is down about three feet down from grass level, and found a unique corner I am turning into a small pond area. The colors are absolutely unique and there is a table rock across the bottom of part of the area. Rather than put a pond liner down that covers up the beauty, would it be possible to pour and spread this epoxy resin right on the dirt and rock to make a sealed pond effect that I could put water in? It would be in a shaded area. I really would like to do this or any other method that would show the 'dirt color' a beautiful rock through the medium. I have never handled this type of product before.

Evelyn Garrett
- Nashville, Tennessee, USA

November 5, 2013

Q. I poured the Envirotex on my bottle cap table for the top coat finish it said it gives, and its been drying for 2 whole days now, and is still not dry. What should I do?

Elizabeth Wilson
- Cedar Falls, Iowa, U.S.

November 16, 2013

Q. Yikes! Now I am scared. We live on a Gulf Island and I have created an 'antiqued' map of the island. My husband has created a kitchen island and we are about to to use EX-74 (recommended by our plastic store) to put the 2 together. I have the humidity down (not too easy this close to the water) and the temperature up, edges dammed and miles of plastic down. Any last minute advice?

Moira Laurie
- Protection Island, Nanaimo BC Canada

November 19, 2013

A. Hi. My advice is to read the mixing instructions very carefully. The thing to remember is that 2-component coatings don't "dry", they "react". Without the proper amount of hardener, properly mixed in, they will remain wet and sticky forever. Best of luck.


Ted Mooney, amadeya42.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E.
Pine Beach, New Jersey

November 19, 2013

thumbs up signJust to let you know it went very well. We followed the directions completely and it has dried hard and clear with no bubbles. It seems a little thin though, the edges of the map and a few wrinkles in the paper still show, so we think we might do another pour on the weekend after it has had a chance to really settle. It's been a fun project!

Moira Laurie
- Protection Island Nanaimo BC Canada

Cold weather coatings for bartop

March 21, 2014

Q. I am building a bar on my back deck and it will be under a roof. What I am looking for is a clear coat to put on the bar top like an epoxy resin but the trouble I have is I live in Pa. and I have heard horror stories about the epoxy cracking and peeling off in the cold states. Does anyone have suggestions for a glass finish that will withstand the cold weather? Thanks.

jodi mccullough
- Pennsylvania


March 28, 2014

A. Jodi,
Standard clear acrylic resin should do fine. Since I'm inclined to be a bit on the cheaper side I'd do a sheet of acrylic over the bar top and glue in place with something like Lexel. That way the acrylic sheet can expand and contract with the temperatures and won't have that sheering stress it would if attached.

Marc Banks
Blacksmith - Lenoir, North Carolina USA

May 3, 2014

Q. I gave a glass top coffee table. The glass fits inside the table. Will it work to glue and epoxy pennies on the underside of the table top, leaving enough room around the edges for the glass to fit in when complete? Will the pennies stay adhered to the table upside down? Suggestions?


Kim Dacey
- Pembroke, Massachusetts

May 2014

A. Hi Kim. If the glass is clean and the pennies are clean, I think transparent Crazy Glue would work fine.


Ted Mooney, amadeya42.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E.
Pine Beach, New Jersey

May 14, 2014

Q. I'm wanting to make a sand and seashell resin floor in my kitchen. It's a small kitchen, maybe 30 sq ft. How thick does it need to be? Is this even doable? Can it handle it if I had to pull out my refrigerator? Thanks for any help and advice.

Gary Randall
- Florida, usa

May 2014

A. Hi. If there is no air below the shells it doesn't sound to me like a refrigerator or anything else would break the coating if the floor under it doesn't flex. And it sounds like a very cool project. But we must learn to crawl before we walk, and I personally would not attempt such a large, questionably satisfactory, and non-fixable project without prior experience. For example, what happens if the coating doesn't harden and remains gummy? Play with the coating on something smaller first :-)


Ted Mooney, amadeya42.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E.
Pine Beach, New Jersey

Top Articles

silverware made in germany cast iron stove porcelain toilet repair kit boric acid for styes restoring cast iron how to get water stains out of wood furniture wheel polishing service oneida stainless flatware what will clean tarnished brass finished basement smells musty stainless steel adhesive film scrap catalytic converter signature stainless steel cleaner imusa cookware pure silver chain peroxide and vinegar ja henckels flatware replacements

Is there any solution to epoxy that didn't harden?

May 24, 2014

Q. I admit that I am at fault. I must not have stirred the ingredients for a long enough period of time because it has not fully hardened and it's been 2 days. I am writing to see if there is anything at all I can do to salvage the project. I love it and so want to be able to keep it.


I placed mirror and slate on a black painted background then poured the clear Enviro-Tech mixture over the whole thing as a counter top. The first time I poured it, it settled and hardened beautifully...but I needed more material to finish the job. I waited a couple of days and then finished the job. It looks beautiful but it feels tacky. It has been raining for the past few days so I am hoping that the moisture in the air may contribute to a slower drying time.

If you have any suggestions at all, I would greatly appreciate your help. Thank you.

Ellen Dokton
- Weare,New Hampshire USA

May 2014

A. Hi Ellen. I doubt that humidity has anything to do with it, as these two-component coatings don't "dry" through the evaporation of water, they "cure" through a chemical reaction between the components.

Nobody has ever written to this site with a solution to epoxy that didn't harden because of too little hardener, but that doesn't necessarily mean there is no solution. I think I'd try painting the tacky finish with a very light coat of the hardener and see what happens. With luck, it will harden and leave only an oily film of excess hardener that you can wipe up after allowing plenty of curing time. It's probably worth a try.


Ted Mooney, amadeya42.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E.
Pine Beach, New Jersey

May 25, 2014

Q. Thanks, Ted. I will definitely try your suggestion and get back to you. I really appreciate your help.

Quick question - Should I do another mixture of the material or simply use the hardener?

Ellen Dokton [returning]
- Weare, New Hampshire USA

May 2014

A. Hi Ellen. Again, I've personally never heard of anyone achieving success with poorly mixed and sticky epoxy, so I'm only suggesting something to try, not promising a solution.

But the hardener is an oily solution, and I believe you will be able to wipe up any unreacted hardener. So I'm suggesting that you try just applying hardener, hoping that it will react with any uncured epoxy, and hoping that the excess will wipe up fairly easily. You might experiment first, making a small sample batch of material with two little hardener, and apply it to scrap, then apply this second wash of hardener and see if it hardens and can be cleaned up.


Ted Mooney, amadeya42.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E.
Pine Beach, New Jersey

September 26, 2014

Q. We have built a counter top and poured Famowood Glaze. There a few puck marks. It looks great and the marks can be fixed.
We HATE the fact that our coffee cups leaves dents! The glaze can only take 120 degrees. And also that the glaze is flexible. If we leave the mixer on the countertop it leaves foot marks from the mixer that are to disappear after awhile(self-leveling). We know it also needs to be sealed because food types will stain the glaze deep into the epoxy.
We want to know if there is an epoxy we can pour over our cured epoxy glaze. That can tolerate extreme heat(like 200 degrees) as well as finishes out hard without the flex of Famowood Clear Glaze.

Mark & Sheila Young
DIY - Reamstown, Pennsylvania USA

November 8, 2014

Q. I would like to paint my walls in my bathroom with a clear Polyurethane, the walls will be Opal. I plan to seal the whole washroom to use a power spray to wash it with.
Can I use this to do walls and ceilings?

Any help would be appreciated.

Drake Burn
- Toronto Canada

November 25, 2014

Q. I want to do a round table about 5 foot diameter. I'm wanting to place some coins and mostly matchbook covers. have used a router for a nice 1/2 inch round edge. Do I have to make a border around the edge or can I just do multiple coats that run over the edge.

Frank Thomas
- Newport Michigan USA

Plastic Wood

November 21, 2014

A. Years ago there was a product called "liquid plastic". it was a one-part product primarily used to finish wood. Does anyone know if it is still available and at what retail outlets?
I used it as a wood hardener/preservative by thinning it down with paint thinner and then letting it soak into the "dryrot" wood and had pretty good results. it was a lot cheaper than using Minwax's wood hardener.

john chambers
- des moines, iowa

January 15, 2015

Q. I have some 2" thick oak planks that have been cut from old warehouse timbers. The wood is filled with cracks, worm holes, knot holes, and other imperfections which give it character. I am making a table top out of it and am looking for advice on how to fill those imperfections but still allow them to be visible. I want a relatively smooth, matte or satin finish when complete, not glossy.

Jim Petek
- Athens, Alabama USA

March 15, 2015

A. Hi, I'm responding to the question regarding the reclaimed oak planks. I use a two part 50/50 epoxy all the time to fill any nail holes, checks, dry rot etc. that I want to fill or stabilize yet remain visible. You need to make sure the product won't run out the bottom of the piece, so after applying a few sealer coats on the bottom I always heavily tape anywhere I think it might flow out as it's so expensive and it WILL find somewhere to flow if it can. I preheat both containers with a hair dryer prior to combining and continue with heat as I mix which I do slowly as not to create excess bubbles. My product I stir 4min. then pour into another container and stir additional 2 min. The heat creates a virtual bubble free mix and aids the flow. I fill all holes etc. and let sit over night as they almost always settle below the surface which I then refill just above surface and sand down after hardening flush with surface. it is now ready for a good over pour. To achieve matte finish I then overspray with dull lacquer which maintains clarity while muting the high gloss. (Note: small holes such as wormholes take several rounds of filling as air gets trapped and takes time to come to surface.)

Tom Powers
Reclaimed wood - Ontario, Canada

February 5, 2015

Q. So I'm refinishing my kitchen table and I'm making a luminescent table and want to put a high gloss epoxy finish. What epoxy allows UV light to go through to get the full effect of the glow powder?

Mario ortiz
- Grain valley, Missouri

February 25, 2015

Q. I make a lot of wood things -- beds, kitchen tables ... and I have used good wood for these. my daughter wants a country kitchen table. I'm going to use some oak I have and it has knots in it and some thin cracks. all of these are in the middle of the planks. I want to fill them with a clear poly -- something like EX-74. I wanted to tape the bottom, then pour in the poly stuff to level; sand; then put a poly coating over it. Any idea as to what substance to use?

richard merriss
- alvaton, Kentucky

Fixing a sticky epoxy tabletop

March 29, 2015

Q. I recently made a table, with thousands on bottle caps on the top. I sealed it with a two bottle expo resin that was mixed together. I let the table dry for about 4 days, and I thought it was done. The first day, a box was sat on the table and part of the cardboard stuck to the table. Obviously the table was not done drying, but now I have a huge "peeled paper" look on the top of the table. I have tried every cleaner and goo gone to get it off. Nothing seems to work. Can I sand the top and reapply a new layer of the epoxy resin? Or will this make the table cloudy? I'm not sure what to do and I don't want to make the table any worse.

Thank you for your help!

Whitney Carpenter
- Mansfield, Texas, USA

Resin, Epoxy, Other?

April 28, 2015

Q. We are remodeling our home and doing it on a very short shoestring. Right now we're working on the bathrooms, which were a later priority until the plumbing upstairs started leaking.

My husband is an old master cabinetmaker/yacht builder. He's built a million interiors in high end homes, yachts, and custom coaches. For forty years he's been creating amazing masterpieces and everyone who has ever worked with him or has seen his work is in awe of his abilities and know-how. He and I butt heads over every project we attempt together. He wants to stick to the "tried and true" while I see a brave new world with all sorts of possibilities.

You know what materials he's looking at for the vanity counter tops...laminate, solid surface, boring, boring, boring. What I want to do is make the counter out of resin, epoxy, whatever with sand, shells, and other beachy things embedded in it.

My idea is to use whatever substrate is needed and cover it with resin or something mixed with white sand. Then, I suppose once it's set up some, I'd arrange shells, pebbles, dried seaweed, grass, little dried or fake sea life, tiny "beach things", sparkles & stuff, on the sand. I have read that things like shells should be clear coated before covering them with resin. Then, of course, I'd pour a final layer of resin, let it cure, un-mold it, hand it over to my husband to cut the hole for the sink and install it.

My gigantic problem is that I have no idea what materials to use. I've been researching for about a week and am just getting more and more confused. My husband and son have finally seen pictures that helped me illustrate what I'm visualizing and now they're both on board and very gung ho. I'm being asked how much this is going to cost and how long it'll take to cure but I don't have those answers since I don't even know what materials to use. Can ya'll please throw out some suggestions and education? I'll really appreciate it!

I have a few more questions about some other things going on with this project but I don't want to overload ya'll all at once.

Cheryl Combs
Homemaker, Hobbyist, Wife of a Pro Woodworker - Wakefield, Virginia, USA

April 2015

A. Hi Cheryl. Although I haven't used the thick, pourable epoxy myself, I have read hundreds of postings about it and come to the conclusion that it's like anything else: you'll make mistakes on your first try: the shells will float, or the carefully placed sand piles will be washed away by the flowing epoxy, or another little problem will mar your first effort. So get some small pieces of plywood, discarded shells and extra sand -- and try it first :-)


pic of Ted Mooney
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
Pine Beach, New Jersey
Striving to live "Aloha"

April 28, 2015

Q. Hi Ted! Thanks for the rapid response. Shoot, you mean I'm going to have to work to figure this out? ;)

Can you or anyone recommend materials that should do what I'm attempting? I think my husband might frown upon me buying a whole lots of stuff to experiment with.


Cheryl Combs [returning]
- Wakefield, Virginia USA

April 2015

A. Hi again Cheryl. As I said I haven't done it, but "thick pourable epoxy" is what you want if you want something thick and pourable. But yes, it's expensive. A gallon is 231 cubic inches, or 462 square inches at say 1/2" thick.

I'm sure your husband no longer makes the mistakes he made 40 years ago, as he's been experimenting for 40 years. But if he wants you to bet it all on one shot rather than getting a bit of hands-on learning and practice, start right off with your final piece :-)

I suspect you're going to find it almost impossible to let it set up some and then arrange. I don't know from personal experience, but I'm pretty sure that fewer pours is going to work better than many pours, although good success is reported above with two layers. You may be able to glue your sand and shells and stuff down before the main pour(s). Good luck.


pic of Ted Mooney
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
Pine Beach, New Jersey
Striving to live "Aloha"

May 4, 2015

Q. Can I use epoxy coat to fill in areas that did not hold the clear epoxy to my tabletop?

melissa voyles
- marshfield Missouri usa

Best type of clear finish for a rough surface to be used as a bar top

June 3, 2015 -- this entry appended to this thread by editor in lieu of spawning a duplicative thread

Q. I've been researching what the best clear finish is for rough surfaces to give a Class A finish.
For example: I have a rough countertop made of stone, has a sandpaper feel. I want it to be even smoother and have that nice glossy finish.

What options can I use to achieve this?
1. Clear epoxy
2. Tempered glass on top -- what I'm clueless about is what adhesive I would use to attach this to the rough stone countertop.

Shawn Scott
Contractor - Florida

June 16, 2015

I'd certainly use glass.

It will cost less.
It will resist scratches and stains better
It will not discolor over time
It can easily be replaced if damaged

Any glass shop can recommend the best type and thickness, cut it to size, and polish the edges smooth.

You do not need to glue it in place. Simply glue some 1/2" or 3/4" diameter rubberized cork dots to the underside. you need them only at the corners, and about every three feet along the length.

Any car parts store will have 1/16" thick rubberized cork as it is commonly used to make gaskets.

jeffrey holmes
Jeffrey Holmes, CEF
South Carolina

What accelerates the cure time of bar finish?

July 16, 2015

Q. I would like to know if there is a way to accelerate cure times for bar finish. I'm trying to build a coffee table for my parents anniversary. I've made it a memorial table. Pictures of their dogs. With dog tags and collars. To encase the collars with bar finish I had to go 3/8" thick on the bar finish. We left 12 hours between coats. The 4th coat is still wet. Been wet for 5 days. How can I speed up the cure time?

Ryan Rexin
hobbies. - Sturgeon Country, Alberta, Canada

Why do I have pock marks after a few hours of applying the high gloss resin and how do I fix it?

November 5, 2015

Q. i used the high gloss epoxy on a dining room table, I used it over a well cured oil based polyurethane. I got the air bubbles out and the surface was nice and smooth. After a few hours I started getting pock marks. Why does this happen and what can I do to fix it?

sandi haines
hobby - reading Pennsylvania

May 2, 2016

A. I have worked a few "poured" tops and have a couple tricks that work really well.

Mixing... Accurate measurements are critical. ALSO some are measured by weight and not volume, so I suggest reading closely. The "mixing" container should never ever be used for pouring to the table/surface top. Parts of the binary will hug the walls of the container (you won't see them) and will create soft spots in your pour.

Substrate prep... Porous surfaces need pre-sealed or coated with a thin layer of your resin prior (or deco glue will work) to the main pours (1/8 to 1/4" pour is best). Set time is critical on pours and products will tell you the best time gap.. ANY cracks or holes WILL be drain holes when you pour.

Air bubbles... First thing is avoid creating them. The mixing process is tedious and best done with a mixing tool on a drill. Do not "whip" up your resin, and do not get in a hurry, you have plenty of time to mix. After the pour, a simple heat gun works the best.. Propane is great if you have some practice but the heat gun will avoid burn/discolor issues.. (a blow dryer is not a heat gun FWIW) I suggest multiple passes as you can not see most of the tiny bubbles at all (you will only notice them popping as you run your heat gun across the newly poured surface). Repeat the process as many times as it takes to observe no bubbles popping..

Cleanliness... A clean shop is important here as your poured top is going to be a dirt magnet for hours and hours. It is not a bad idea to make a cover (that does not touch the table top) to set in place after the pour and blow out (bubble removal).

I have more but these are the main catch points I found..

Randy Obert
- Fort Wayne, Indiana

April 24, 2016

Q. I just poured a bar top for my tiki bar and we got bugs and leaves that landed on it while wet...how can I get them out? I'm planning on pouring over it with a UV resistant epoxy...if i cut the bugs out, can I pour over that with no signs that they were there?

Karen Jarolik
- Copperas Cove, Texas

June 12, 2016

Q. Hi there, I am in the process of re-vamping my kitchen worktops. I have primed them with Zinsser BIN, and will be adding a coat of V33 cupboard paint. I would then like to coat them with epoxy resin, to get that high gloss finish. I am OK to use Envirotex over the V33 cupboard paint? Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your help.


Gail Ronken
- United Kingdom

Resin table top problem

September 7, 2016

Q. The wood slab i poured with a resin (enviro tex) is
Lifting at some places on the edges. How and what can I do to fix this without doing a repour?

annette mcbride
- grand island, nebraska united states

September 9, 2016

Q. I'm planning on making a set of corn hole boards using bottle caps and clear resin. I will take any and all advice on this b/c I don't want to screw it up. It's taken me far too long to collect the caps. I plan on building a frame around the boards so I need advice on that and need advice on the best resin/epoxy to use to get a nice, clear, durable finish!! THANKS!

Carol Stewart
- Indian Trail, North Carolina, USA

October 27, 2016

Q. Hello,

Thanks for great advice on resin application!
I have a 70's burl wood table that I bought recently that needs to have the resin removed as it has some damage.

Has anyone any experience on how to go about removing the half inch of resin?? If I could just get the top finish off, I would be happy.
Thanks very much for your help with this!!

Tammy Kara
- Vancouver, BC, Canada

January 2, 2017

I've nearly completed my outdoor coffee table. The top is approximately 5 feet long by 27 inches wide and approximately 1.5 inches thick. It's a large, live edge slab of Black Walnut.

The problem lies in that there's a large 'hole' through the wood. The hole is irregular, approximately 8 inch x 8 inch and goes all the way through the slab.

I've screwed a piece of Lexan on the underside of the slab and have sealed the edges of the Lexan. In the cavity I've arranged an array of coral pieces, some are attached directly to the Lexan, others are 'elevated' above the Lexan by means of metal 'stands' (copper plumbing components).

I now need to fill the void with a clear resin in order to embed the objects and to bring the resin fill up to the level of the tabletop.

I've looked into all sorts of different resins, but really do require something that is pourable (preferably without a lot of fumes) that will cure without a lot of temperature restrictions, vacuum pumping, etc.

Does anyone on here have any suggestions (i.e., specific product) as to what I should be using. I do realize that I will probably need to do this in layers in order to get a thickness of approximately 1-1.5 in3.

I'm only going to get one shot at this. There are a lot of hours into this project so far. A failure would be hard to live down.

Mark Moreland
- Toronto, Ontario Canada

A. Hi Mark. Sorry but we don't compare brands on this largely anonymous website because experience shows it is almost always a disaster (salespeople have posed as satisfied customers, effusive with praise; people are afraid to be critical of a specific brand for legal reasons, so reports are unrealistically favorable; posters lose their spirit of camaraderie when postings recommending competitive products affect their livelihood). But I think a general error here is saying you're only getting "one shot" at this. Before working on such an important piece, you really need to play around with the resin a bit to discover for yourself how it all really comes together. You have to have a feel for how it flows, how quickly it actually hardens, what happens with bubbles, how thick you can pour before trouble, whether there will be visible lines from a double pour, etc. You won't become an expert, able to deal with a really tricky project, just by reading. Good luck.


pic of Ted Mooney
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
Pine Beach, New Jersey
Striving to live "Aloha"

April 25, 2017

Q. I am a first timer and I see references to different epoxy's so I need to get clarification. O am doing a lazy susan for the centre of my dining room table (approximately 24"-36" in diameter). The wood is distressed wood and I can put the epoxy either onto a finished surface or a non finished surface (I need to know which is better). I want the top to look like "glass" once it's dried and finished....what kind of epoxy should I use? Should I use the 2 part (resin and hardener?) I watched a video where it was hardener and resin mixed together (50/50) and then poured and smoothed out with a straight edge until all the white "haze" was gone and then let set to dry. It looked easy but after reading some of the above information (one guy said from breathing in the toxins he could almost feel the epoxy harden in the back of his throat - sounds scary). I need to get some direction on the best way to do this and the safest.

Thanks in advance.

Christina Kennis
- Toronto, Canada

September 14, 2017

Q. I want to coat my bedside tables with something that prevents rings and cigarette burns. Should I go with 2 part epoxy or something else like "liquid glass" which seems to be new on the market and available only for car application in the USA. Other applications available from Europe. It say it is nano technology. Thoughts?

PS: thank you for helping everyone, very few threads last this long and are useful.

Elaine sayers

October 21, 2017

A. I have used enviro tech on my kitchen bar with good results. By the way, a few extra tips to pour the epoxy, I had no problems pouring another layer of epoxy over a sticky layer that didn't dry, to fix the bad layer. Also next time I'll run a bug zapper in any indoor area the day before, the bugs love the resin. I did have to cut them out and pour another layer. 3 layers was the charm anyway, perfect thickness. I didn't build a frame, just made sure back edge of counters had good putty in cracks and let the edges drip onto taped down plastic over cabinet doors and floors. Then smoothed the vertical edges with a sponge. Also turn off house fans to avoid dust during the pour. Also I bought several pairs of cheap flip flops in case I stepped into drippings of the resin on top of the layers of floor cardboard. I threw away the flip flops when they picked up any stray resin and put on new ones. Hospital shoe covers would work well.

Q. But, I am now wanting to cover a deck table that already has several coats of urethane. Does epoxy resin bond well over urethane? Maybe this question has been answered before because google brought me to this site when I asked, but I can't find it.

Linda Buff
- Grandy, North Carolina


January 1, 2018

A. I've been doing bar tops tables and live edge tables. The company I've been using is smooth-on they are just a little more costly but I have been very happy with the products. The encapsulation product is called Tarbender and it can go on super thick and not crack or yellow and it takes powder dyes well.

And a little tip: a very thin layer of epoxy sealant before flow coats will help the sneaky bubble problems, and pour thru a pantyhose to get rid of a ton of air bubbles to start. Oh and once you torch two or three times, walk away; this stuff all has a working time and if it gels, the torch will push ripples into the surface that won't flow out. Hence the prep sealing! Oh it costs me about 75-90 bucks for the gallon kit at their website.

Mike Balsley
- St peters Missouri USA

This public forum has 60,000 threads. If you have a question in mind which seems off topic to this thread, you might prefer to Search the Site


Disclaimer: It's not possible to diagnose a amadeya42 problem or the hazards of an operation via these pages. All information presented is for general reference and does not represent a professional opinion nor the policy of an author's employer. The internet is largely anonymous & unvetted; some names may be fictitious and some recommendations may be deliberately harmful.

If you need a product/service, please check these Directories:

JobshopsCapital Equip. & Install'nChemicals & Consumables Consult'g, Train'g, SoftwareEnvironmental ComplianceTesting Svcs. & Devices

©1995-2018 amadeya42.com, Inc., Pine Beach, NJ - -